12 best belay devices

A belay device is a crucial piece of equipment used in climbing and outdoor recreation to manage the rope during belaying, which is a technique used to protect a climber. Belaying involves controlling the rope to provide protection and safety for the climber, whether they are ascending, descending, or resting. Belay devices are designed to create friction on the rope, allowing the belayer to control the rate at which the rope is paid out or taken in.

There are several types of belay devices, including:

  1. Tubular Belay Devices: Tubular belay devices are the most common and versatile type. They typically have a tube-like shape and a slot where the rope is threaded.The rope is looped through the device, and the belayer controls the friction by applying pressure on the rope.

  2. Assisted Braking Belay Devices: Assisted braking devices have additional features that increase their braking capabilities, providing more security for the climber. Examples include the GriGri and similar devices, which utilize a camming mechanism to assist with braking during a fall.

  3. Figure-Eight Belay Devices: Figure-eight devices have a figure-eight shape and are often used in rappelling and belaying. They create a lot of friction on the rope, allowing for controlled descents.

  4. Auto-blocking or Guide Mode Belay Devices: These devices are designed for multi-pitch climbing or guiding. They allow the belayer to easily switch between belaying a leader and belaying one or more followers directly off an anchor.

It's important for climbers to select the appropriate belay device based on the type of climbing they are doing, the diameter of the rope being used, and personal preferences. Proper usage and understanding of the belay device are critical for the safety of both the climber and the belayer.

Belay devices play a crucial role in ensuring a safe climbing experience, providing a means to arrest falls and control rope movement effectively. Climbers should always receive proper training and familiarize themselves with the specific belay device they intend to use.

Below you can find our editor's choice of the best belay devices on the market
  

Black Diamond Big Air XP Package

Black Diamond

Based on 413 reviews Check latest price

Product description

An essential belay/rappel package, featuring the redesigned ATC-XP. Package includes belay device and locking carabiner.

  • Black Diamond Equipment: Designing and constructing the world's best climbing, skiing & mountain gear since 1957

User questions & answers

Question: What are the certifications on this
Answer: Not sure what you mean by certifications? Black Diamond makes some of the most reliable, high quality gear on the market. The atc is the gold standard for belay devices.
Question: Will this feed 3/16 rope
Answer: It will feed 3/16 (≈4.75 mm) rope, but it is not designed for use with such small diameter rope. Manufacturer specifications are for rope between 7.7 mm to 11 mm diameter.
Question: Will this accept 11mm rope
Answer: It will fit up to an 11mm, however it will not feed very well with an 11mm.
Question: Does anyone know how much these weigh? Thank you
Answer: No idea but this is lighter than the last one I had from Petzel and this ATC has way better grip of the rope. If you are looking to cut weight I would cut it some where else and go with this rig. 10 out of 10 recommend.

GM CLIMBING Micro Belay Device Tubular V-grooved or Belay Package EN 15151-2 UIAA Certified

GM CLIMBING

Based on 159 reviews Check latest price
  • GM CLIMBING Belay Package. V-grooved Tubular Belay Device: light and compact, smooth rope control, EN 15151-2 and UIAA certified; HMS screw locking carabiner: 25kN breaking strength, large gate opening, both CE UIAA certified
  • LIGHTEN YOUR RACK! 2.24Oz, an ultra-light, compact and easy-to-use V-grooved belay device with teethed channel, IDEAL CHOICE for you climbers to lighten rack.
  • BETTER ROPE CONTROL! Whether you use belay device in belaying climbers or rappelling, TEETHED CHANNEL creates more friction in braking and allow device to work with skinnier rope. With minimum force, you can easily arrest the fall of climber promptly.
  • Double Slots construction, belay device offers effective braking to half, twin and single ropes, 8~11mm.
  • HMS screw locking carabiner, always a nice match to belay device, which assures safety with locking gate, and helps properly position the system with narrow angle side attached to harness loop.

Product features

GM CLIMBING V-grooved Belay Device

Ultra-light and Compact

Takes up little space in the rack and easy for climbers to carry

V-grooved slots

Rope is allowed to smoothly run through the belay when climber is during climbing

Rope-friendly

Every corner or edge of belay device is round and smooth, well protecting your ropes

Teethed Channel

Enable belay to work with skinnier rope (8~11mm)

Generates larger friction to help belayer easily control the move of ropes

Double Slots

Able to offer effective braking to half, twin and single ropes

Effectively prevent rope from twisting

V-grooved Belay Device

Material: Aluminum Alloy (anodized), Hot forged

Standard Finish: Anodized

Dimension

- Single Slot: 34 x 15mm / 1.34 x 0.61in

- Metal Part: 55 x 44 x 25mm / 2.17 x 1.73 x 1in

Rope compatibility (Dia): 8~11mm, used with single rope, half rope, double ropes

Net weight: 63.5g / 2.24Oz

EN 15151-2:2012

Note: A Locking Carabiner is required to use with belay device.

HMS Locking Carabiner (for package)

Shape: HMS / Pear Shape

Material: Aluminum alloy (anodized), Hot forged

Breaking Strength:

Major: 25kN; Minor Axis: 9kN; Open Gate: 9kN

Dimension:​ 111.5 x 75.25mm / 4.4 x 2.96inch

Gate Opening(d): ​23.5mm / 0.93inch

Net Weight: 90g / 3.17Oz

CE EN12275

  • Locking gate to assure safe operation
  • HMS shape, with narrow side connecting to harness loop, to practically keep the system in correct loading direction

How does belay device work?

​Belay device works as a friction brake, designed to be used by belayer to assure climber's safety with minimum force.

Three steps to describe:

Bent Rope →

Super great friction(force) →

Stop the move of rope(locking off rope)

Bent rope releases super large force (friction).

By threading through belay device, rope bents twice to generate great friction, which allows belayer to catch the fall of a much heavier climber with minimum force.

PETZL Grigri Belay Device V3 (2019 Release)

PETZL

Based on 762 reviews Check latest price
  • Belay device with assisted braking, for a broad range of single rope diameters (8.5 to 11 mm), designed for the experienced belayer
  • Belay device with assisted braking, compatible with a broad range of single rope diameters, for both gym and crag
  • Exceptional comfort during descents
  • Designed for experienced belayers

User questions & answers

Question: Does the door open on its own
Answer: When climbed into the belay carabiner, no.
Question: How much force does it take to break this device? Also, what's the weight limit for the wearer
Answer: I’ve never heard of one breaking. Will hold any human weight plus dynamic forces when lead climbing.
Question: Is this the most recent gri gri? it says 2019. is that correct
Answer: Hello! Yes, this is the most recent Grigri, released new for 2019.
Question: Hi, is it the new 2019 d014ba01 grigri ? or the old one ? thanks a lot
Answer: Hello! If you are purchasing from WesSpur Tree Equipment, this is the new 2019 model put out by Petzl, which would be part #D014BA01. If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask.

Black Diamond ATC-Xp Belay/Rappel Device

Black Diamond

Based on 379 reviews Check latest price

Product description

Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter.

  • Black Diamond Equipment: Designing and constructing the world's best climbing, skiing & mountain gear since 1957

User questions & answers

Question: What is the point of two rope slots
Answer: Double roping. But also a spare when one side gets worn smooth (mine is almost completely smooth, after 3 years of hard use). But mainly for double-rope technique (highly recommended). This is a great ATC, but I will buy the "Guide" model, with its extra ring, next time, for remote belay technique (especially useful for ice).
Question: Will this work with oplux
Answer: The specs say it goes down to 7.7 mm, so it "should" work on 8 mm Oplux. Depends on what you are doing though. IMO, single rope belay or rappel on that thin a rope would be too hard to control.
Question: What's the loop made of is it cable or aluminum
Answer: Cable
Question: Does this come with a carabineer
Answer: No it does not come with a carabiner. If you need a carabiner then the Black Diamond Big Air XP package is what you want.

YXGOOD 50KN Rescue Figure, 8 Descender Large Bent-Ear Belaying and Rappelling Gear Belay Device Climbing for Rock Climbing Peak Rescue Aluminum Magnesium Alloy

YXGOOD

Based on 54 reviews Check latest price
  • Product size and weight: length 6.7 inches, width 6.7 inches, upper hole length 2.17 inches, middle hole length 1.26 inches, lower hole length 1.54 inches, weight about 10 ounces
  • Product material: the product is made of aluminum magnesium alloy by hot forging. It has the advantages of high strength, light weight and easy to carry
  • Special design: the middle section of the 8-shaped ring is thickened, the thickness is greater than both ends, which can enhance the wear resistance and reduce the overall weight
  • Excellent braking resistance: breaking strength 11000 LBF (50kN / 5000kg), allowing smooth rope movement to drop or ensure, providing excellent control rope
  • Scope of application: applicable to rapid descent, expansion, exploratory hole, power rescue and aerial work, etc

Product features

YXGOOD Climbing Descender

  • The 8-shaped Descender Large Bent-Ear Belaying has excellent braking resistance and a breaking strength of 11000 LBF (50kN / 5000kg).

Advantage:

  1. By winding a rope around the ear, it can help people hang in the air, enjoy the scenery or perform high-level work.
  2. Wrapping the rope around the ear increases friction and slows down the speed.
  3. Allows smooth rope movement when lowering or securing, providing excellent control of the rope.

Curved ear:

  • The curved ear design makes this product safer and more reliable. By wrapping the rope around the ear, it can help people hang in mid air.

Main rope groove:

  • The main rope groove is large enough to double or triple your single rope to increase friction during slow descent. Smooth surface and round edge, don't worry about rope damage.

With 3 slots of different size:

  • The big slot adjust your ascent speed, the middle extra slot could be used as a belay device, the small one could connect climbing carabiner or other equipment.

EDELRID GigaJul Belay Device - Slate

EDELRID

Based on 41 reviews Check latest price
  • Intelligent hybrid design: body made of ultra-light aluminum, areas susceptible to abrasion made of robust stainless steel
  • Guide mode: simple and rapid abseiling and bringing up seconds plus comfortable belaying from a station as a doubled rope
  • Assisted braking guide mode: brake boost for catching falls in leader mode
  • Rope can be paid out faster in assisted braking guide mode by holding the device in the open position with the thumb
  • Additional eyelet for simply unlocking the device in second mode using a carabiner

Product features

Giga Jul

The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. Another chapter in our Steel Story.

By moving the green slider, the Giga Jul is instantly transformed from an assisted braking tuber to a standard tuber.

Abrasion Resistant
Guide Mode
Assisted Braking Guide Mode
EN 15151-2 Certification

EDELRID Jul 2 Belay Device

EDELRID

Based on 114 reviews Check latest price
  • Weight - 87g
  • Tough core material of abrasion-resistant stainless steel
  • Polyamide shell for pleasant handling
  • Favourable combination of brake boost for assisting the belayer in the event of leader falls and the dynamics required for a sufficiently soft fall
  • Suitable for 8.4 -11.0 mm single ropes

User questions & answers

Question: What happens if you use 12mm rope? If anything bad, does anyone sell one for 12mm rope
Answer: Hello, the Jul 2 will only work for rope in the following range 8.9 -11mm, to our knowledge we do not know of anything that will work with a 12mm rope that is auto locking. You could possible use a figure 8.
Question: Can you use the Jul 2 to rappel
Answer: Yes only if it’s a single rope rappel. For a double rope rappel you’ll need the megajul.

Product features

JUL²

Innovative belay device with high braking performance for single ropes. The optimized Mega Jul geometry ensures easy and secure belaying even with thicker ropes.

Abrasion Resistant
Fast & Simple Handling
Fits 8.9 –11.0 mm single ropes
EN 15151-2 Certification

Ito Rocky Climbing Gear Ascender and Rappelling Descender Belay Devices for 9-12mm Rope for Rescue & Arborist

Georsh

Based on 181 reviews Check latest price

Product description

Self braking in case of accidental loss of descent control. Sensitive handle enables smooth descent without harmful rope twisting. Also suitable for work at a height and for emergency self evacuation.



Specification:

  • Suitable for ropes of diameter of 9-12mm/0.35-0.47 inch

  • Load: 150KG/330 LB

  • Material: Aluminum magnesium alloy

  • Size (L x W): Approx. 8.27 * 2.17 inch

  • Color: Blue



    Warm Tips:

  • We provide 90-day warranty !

  • If you have any questions, please contact us and we will reply within 24 hours.

    • Material:Aluminum magnesium alloy. Size: 2.17"(W) * 8.27"(L), Net Weight: 1.04 lb.
    • CE Certification, EN 341. Max Load:150 kg/330 lb. Suitable for 9-12mm/0.35-0.47 inch dia.
    • Easy to Install:Device can be rapidly installed or removed from the rope without disconnecting it from the harness.
    • Design makes it good for descending tight passages,suitable for teach use.Self-breaking function allows you to easily stop and hold your position on rope.
    • Suitable for rock climbing, mountaineering, exploring, rappelling, rescue, engineering protection, aerial work etc.
  • User questions & answers

    Question: Can you Ascend Freely? Also will it stop you from falling
    Answer: It will not ascend with a 12mm rope. It has an anti panic cam that, unfortunately, locks in when you try to ascend. It descends wonderfully, will not ascend on larger rope....if any. Also, it DOES stop completely, with no creep. And I am 225+ gear.
    Question: Can it be used in gear for fire fighters, will iy withstand some heat
    Answer: Generally speaking, keeping away from fire is more important! We tested it on 80ft drop at speed of 1ft / s for 3 times, Observed maximum temperature increase was 58deg Fahrenheit, 69F outside temp, 127F the descender temp. From the results, the faster the decline, the higher the temperature. I found nylon and polyester ropes have a melting point about 450F on the technical website, Some information Tom Jones sent stated the maximum usable temperature should be 194F Conclusion: From the data, it seems unlikely Descender can generate enough heat to damage the rope when stopped if the melting point is used but we shouldn't follow this. Using the limit Tom provided on a hot day (100+ F) it probably possible to reach the limit, but you'd have been going very fast. At the same time we do not approve of dropping more than 330ft uninterruptedly Repeat once more: keep the rope away from the fire!
    Question: Is there a weight limit to this
    Answer: Yes, the max weight limit is 900 pounds.
    Question: Can’t seem to figure out how to tighten up the slack in the rope. It wants to lock up every time I try to pull on it
    Answer: This device is not designed to be used as an ascent device. It’s just as hard to pull in slack as it is for the line to run out when descending.

    Beal Birdie Belay Device Blue, One Size

    Beal

    Based on 31 reviews Check latest price

    Product description

    Compact belay device with assisted braking for lead climbing or top rope. All metal construction with cam and friction components in stainless steel for great durability. The rope exits following the device's axis to avoid twisting. The BIRDIE can be used with all dynamic single ropes from 8.5mm to 11mm. All steel construction

    User questions & answers

    Question: Can this be used as a decender
    Answer: I personally have not descended with this device, but if you descended with a grigri the concepts the same.
    Question: I understand this isn’t the intended application, but will this take a 1/2 inch line and hold a 12,000 pound boat at anchor
    Answer: The max weight it can hold is 2000 pounds.
    Question: Is it compatible with a 30m rope
    Answer: It is compatible with any length of rope. The rope diameter should be between 8.5 and 11 millimeters. Too thin and the assist will not bind the rope reliably. Too thick and it is too difficult to feed / take up rope.
    Question: The pictures show two slightly different models: orange and blue on one side and green on the other. Any important difference between
    Answer: Hi, from what I’m aware, the only difference between the models is the color.

    CyberDyer 35KN Figure 8 Descender, Rescue Figure 8 Rappelling Gear Belay Device Aviation Aluminum Rigging Plate for Climbing Belaying and Rappelling

    CyberDyer

    Based on 52 reviews Check latest price

    Product description

    CyberDyer Figure 8 Descender can be used as a descend in the same way as the standard figure 8.

    Figure 8 descender works as a much more versatile rappel device for SRT.

    By wrapping the rope around its slots, it can help people hang in mid altitudes.

    It can increase the friction and slow down the descending speed.

    Thick body largely decreases the abrasion or wear of rope to a minimum level.

    The principle slot is large enough to double or triple your single rope to increase frictions for slow descent.

    Used for rocking climbing, tree climbing, fire rescue, expand, mountaineering, caving, engineering protection, high level working, aerial silk.

    Rescue 8 descender is also widely used in Aerial Dance, especially aerial silk to make a super safe anchor.




    Specifications:

    Material: 7075 Aircraft-grade Aluminum alloy

    Length: 14.6CM / 5.75in

    Width: 7.5CM / 2.95in

    Closed Strength: 7716lbs / 35KN

    Large Hole Size: 5CM / 2in

    Small Hole Size: 2.8CM / 1.1n

    Net weight: 120g/4.23oz

    For the diameter of rope: 8mm - 13mm/0.31" - 0.51" (Approx.)



    Package Included:

    1 x CyberDyer 35KN Figure 8 Descender Belay Device



    Instructions:

    01 Fold the rope

    02 Put the folded rope through the big loop

    03 Loop the rope around the ring

    04 Attach the seat belt and hold it under the rope while descending



    Attention:

    Please do more practice with CyberDyer Figure 8 Descender in lower altitudes before going to the higher altitudes.

    Please perform the safety checks no matter how many times you've rappelled.

    • HEAVY DUTY & SAFETY ASSURANCE - Made of 7075 Aircraft-grade Aluminum Alloy, CyberDyer figure 8 descender has sturdy design with two big belay loops to create sufficient friction between the rope and the descender device to slow down the descent or brake to keep you safe.
    • SUPERIOR BRAKING RESISTANCE & FROSTED SURFACE - Tensile strength 7716 lbf (35KN/3500kg). Due to frosted surface design, it helps the rappelling descender increase enough friction, which features superb rope control to handle the heavy loads while belaying or descending.
    • HANDS FREELY & DECREASE HEAT - With two big belay loops, CyberDyer figure 8 descender allows you to tie off your rope and use both your hands freely. Due to the outstanding design, it can decrease the heat of descender to reduce the rope wear and tear, which will save the life time of the descender and rope and make your safety while climbing or rescuing.
    • GREAT CLIMBING MATE - Use CyberDyer rope descender together with your climbing harness and locking carabiner to help you slow down the speed of your descent when rappelling.
    • VERSATILE USE - Due to wide enough loops, CyberDyer rescue 8 descender can work with almost all kinds of climbing ropes. It can be used for rock climbing, mountain climbing, belaying, sport rappelling, cave exploration, working-at-height, rescue operations, etc.

    50KN Rescue Figure, 8 Descender Large Bent-Ear Belaying and Rappelling Gear Belay Device Climbing for Rock Climbing Peak Rescue 7075 Aluminum Alloy

    AOKWIT

    Based on 785 reviews Check latest price

    Product description

    Features:

    It can be used to descend in the same way as the standard figure 8.

    In addition, the Bent Ear Figure 8 has an obvious advantage that by wrapping the rope around its ear, it can help people hang in middle air to appreciate the scenery or work in high level.

    And also, wrapping the rope around ears can increase the friction and slow down the descending speed.



    Attention:

    when use the Bent Ear Figure 8 to help you hang in the middle air, please first practice how to use it in the low air.

    And after you become familiar with it, you can use it safely in the mid and high air.

    Rescue 8 with bent ear is also widely used in Aerial Dance, especially aerial silk to make a super safe anchor.

    Material: 7075 Aircraft-grade Aluminum alloy

    Length: 17CM / 6.7in

    Width: 17CM / 6.7in

    A Width: 7.1CM / 2.8in

    B Width: 5.5CM / 2.15in

    Closed Strength: 8800lbs / 50KN

    Diameter: 1.5CM / 0.6in

    Hole Size: 3.9CM / 1.55in

    Net weight: 282g



    AOKWIT 50kN FIGURE 8 DESCENDER

    Bent-ear Figure 8 works as a much more versatile rappel device for SRT.

    By wrapping the rope around its ear, it can help people hang in mid air.

    It can increase the friction and slow down the descending speed.

    Thick body largely decreases the abrasion or wear of rope to a minimum level.

    The principle slot is large enough to double or triple your single rope to increase frictions for slow descent.

    Used for rocking climbing, tree climbing, fire rescue, expand, mountaineering, caving, engineering protection, high level working, aerial silk.



    Package Included:

    1 x 50KN Rescue Figure 8 Descender Belay Device

    • Keep Your Safety: It uses the friction between the rope and the Descender device to slow down the descent or brake. Extra thick with ears and belay slot will keep your safety, even in a rescue or emergency situation.
    • Superior Braking Resistance: Breaking strength 11,000 lbf (50KN/5000kg). Allows for smooth rope action while descending or belaying, offers superb control on rope.
    • Figure 8 Descender: Big Wall Climbings Terminal 8 with Ears is an improvement over standard figure 8 devices with improved breaking and safety features.
    • EASY LOCK-OFF: With bent-ear, locking yourself off with both hands free will be much easier and safer.
    • It Applies To: Suitable for Mountain Climbing, Rock Climbing, Ice Climbing, Rescue, Working-At-Height, Technical Rope Rescue, Climbers, Cavers and Sport Rappelers

    User questions & answers

    Question: can you safely belay other climbers using this
    Answer: The breaking strength of this rescue figure is 11,000 lbf (50KN/5000kg), so it is safe enough for you while climbing. But we don't recommend that you use it with other climbers at the same time.
    Question: Is it strong enough for a 250-pound adult
    Answer: Haha, 250 pounds, it can hang 44 people, like a barbecue.
    Question: How large diameter of rope is this rated for
    Answer: The applicable rope diameter is 8-13mm.
    Question: What material of it? Is it durable? I need to be safe
    Answer: It is made of aluminum. It appears to be very durable, but I haven’t used it yet. I also need it to be safe.

    Beal Birdie Belay Device Green, One Size

    Beal

    Based on 26 reviews Check latest price

    Product description

    Compact belay device with assisted braking for lead climbing or top rope. All metal construction with cam and friction components in stainless steel for great durability. The rope exits following the device's axis to avoid twisting. The BIRDIE can be used with all dynamic single ropes from 8.5mm to 11mm. All steel construction

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